An Introduction to Swakop(mund)

Swakopmund is a coastal town surrounded by the Namib Desert. Unlike most of Namibia it enjoys an average temperature range of 59 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Rainfall per year is less than 20mm, but it is common to have moist and foggy mornings. The name of the town is derived from the Nama word Tsoakhaub (excrement opening) describing the Swakop River in flood carrying items such as dead animals into the Atlantic Ocean.

A Brief History:

Swakopmund was founded in 1892 by German Captain Curt von Francois to act as the main harbor for the German colony. Just south of Swakopmund is Walvis Bay, Namibia’s only deep sea harbor, which had already been claimed by the British. Swakopmund quickly became the main port for imports and exports and thus became an important town for the German colony.

In 1904 the Herero Wars began. This was a series of fighting between the Herero tribe and German colonists. During a four year period the Hereros rebelled against German colonization. This caused the Germans to increase their military presence in Namibia. The increase of soldiers coming through Swakopmund actually spurred development in the town. Unfortunately the uprising also brought infamy as a concentration camp was established in Swakopmund. Herero prisoners were forced into labor and thousands died.

Development continued until World War I. In 1915, South Africa took control over the German colony. The import/export business coming through Swakopmund was transferred to Walvis Bay leaving the town economically depressed. Fortunately, it was recognized that Swakopmund had potential to be a holiday resort town. Since the early 20s, Swakopmund has continued to develop as a holiday destination, but very little other developments happened. Then in the 70s a uranium mine was built inland which helped bring new development to the town. Regardless, tourism is still Swakopmund’s largest and most crucial industry.

Today:

Nowadays, Swakopmund remains a popular tourist destination. There are an abundance of hotels, coffee shops, restaurants, bars, and souvenir stores.  New development is coming in including a new beach front hotel, housing, sports facilities, and shopping centers. Adventure tourism is popular with sandboarding, quad biking, camel tours, fishing trips, and skydiving. In one day you could go sandboarding on the dunes in the morning, attend an art gallery in the afternoon, and then enjoy a nice dinner by the beach.

Much of the original German architecture still stands. Some of the notable German buildings include the prison and the old train station which is now a hotel with a movie theater and casino. Walking through town you will hear plenty of German being spoken.

The beach is nice; however, it does not remind me of a beach resort as they want you to think here. It just doesn't have the feel or the year round weather to justify being called a beach resort. On the other hand, I can’t complain as it is very nice to be able to enjoy a beer on the beach. There a number of good restaurants around, none of which I've been to due budgetary restraints, but I’ll save my 5 cent pieces.

Overall:

Swakop is nice. I have everything I need and then some. There are plenty of things to do, places to go, and people to meet. That being said, it is still Africa. Just because the town is a holiday destination with German architecture and nice hotels and restaurants does not mean that I am no longer in Namibia. The aftermath of Apartheid is very much apparent. The blacks live in the location, coloreds live in another township, and the whites live in town and other nicer neighborhoods. There are very few bars where you will see a mixed crowd. The distribution of wealth is immense. Life is not easy in the location. There are many uneducated and unemployed people, and even the employed may not make enough money.

I was placed here for a reason, and after only being here for a short time I can already see so many opportunities to help the community. I may not be living out in the bush in a mud hut fending off wild animals as I had pictured, but I will absolutely be helping a community and its people, and this is ultimately why I joined the Peace Corps in the first place, so I couldn't be happier.